| Title |
Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance
|
|---|---|
| Published in |
European Journal of Applied Physiology, June 2016
|
| DOI | 10.1007/s00421-016-3403-1 |
| Pubmed ID | |
| Authors |
Simon Fryer, Lee Stoner, K. Stone, D. Giles, Joakim Sveen, Inma Garrido, Vanesa España-Romero |
| Abstract |
Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e., skeletal muscle oxidative capacity. The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities. Using near-infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen resaturation (O2HTR) following 3-5 min of ischemia. Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI, and training experience, revealed a 1-s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95 % CI 0.35-0.94, Adj R (2) = 0.53). Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top four competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, this finding suggests that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock-climbing performance. |
X Demographics
The data shown below were collected from the profiles of 4 X users who shared this research output. Click here to find out more about how the information was compiled.
Geographical breakdown
| Country | Count | As % |
|---|---|---|
| Slovenia | 1 | 25% |
| United Kingdom | 1 | 25% |
| Ireland | 1 | 25% |
| Unknown | 1 | 25% |
Demographic breakdown
| Type | Count | As % |
|---|---|---|
| Members of the public | 4 | 100% |
Mendeley readers
The data shown below were compiled from readership statistics for 196 Mendeley readers of this research output. Click here to see the associated Mendeley record.
Geographical breakdown
| Country | Count | As % |
|---|---|---|
| United Kingdom | 2 | 1% |
| Japan | 1 | <1% |
| Unknown | 193 | 98% |
Demographic breakdown
| Readers by professional status | Count | As % |
|---|---|---|
| Student > Bachelor | 35 | 18% |
| Student > Master | 30 | 15% |
| Researcher | 15 | 8% |
| Other | 11 | 6% |
| Student > Ph. D. Student | 10 | 5% |
| Other | 31 | 16% |
| Unknown | 64 | 33% |
| Readers by discipline | Count | As % |
|---|---|---|
| Sports and Recreations | 80 | 41% |
| Medicine and Dentistry | 16 | 8% |
| Nursing and Health Professions | 9 | 5% |
| Agricultural and Biological Sciences | 5 | 3% |
| Psychology | 4 | 2% |
| Other | 15 | 8% |
| Unknown | 67 | 34% |
Attention Score in Context
This research output has an Altmetric Attention Score of 2. This is our high-level measure of the quality and quantity of online attention that it has received. This Attention Score, as well as the ranking and number of research outputs shown below, was calculated when the research output was last mentioned on 18 July 2016.
All research outputs
#15,740,207
of 25,374,647 outputs
Outputs from European Journal of Applied Physiology
#2,985
of 4,345 outputs
Outputs of similar age
#198,235
of 353,818 outputs
Outputs of similar age from European Journal of Applied Physiology
#33
of 44 outputs
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